Dodge Charger V.3 Fusion Color Change LED Halo Headlight Kit (2005-2010)

Your Kit and everything that comes with it..


2 Low Beam / 2 High Beam / 2 Turning Signal
3x LED Drivers
RGB Remote
Control Module / Power Supply
Close up of the LEDs
LED Drivers
I bought my Car new in 2010 and ever since I first seen Halos on a Dodge Charger. I've wanted a set, but I've heard a few horror stories, and the installed seemed difficult. After much research, I went with the Flashtech RGB Halos. I like the fact the LED Drivers are easily replaced if needed. After reading Thread after thread on many forums. Flashtech seem to have the best in design and life span.

I just went with the Headlights, but will get the Fog light kit soon to complete the look. If you are on the Fence about Halo’s, don’t be. They are easy to install and nothing is hard to do. It’s just time consuming is all.

Things that are needed

A buddy for a helping hand. There are a few times having an extra set of hands makes it much easier. Like removing the front bumper for one.

Tools: Basic Socket Set with extensions, Flat head screw driver,  Dremel, Cutting Bit, Chalking Gun, Fastener Remover and to make a little easier. Jacking the front end up and removing the front tires helps. Add a Floor jack and jack stands to your list.

Materials: 5min Loctite epoxy, 100% Pure Silicone CLEAR, Latex Gloves, Zip Ties, double sided tape, Inline Fuse, small wire and 3M Automotive Adhesion Promotor 06396.

*** Before even starting anything, Bench Test the Halos to make sure they all work.

Wiring your V.3 halos is easy with our plug and play connections. One led driver is provided for 2 of the SAME size led rings. Each led Driver is different and is marked with a Part number. Every led driver is made for a certain pair of rings and is to be connected to that pair of rings only.  Be aware of what number led driver is connected to what rings. The halos plug into the driver box where the two leads are. The single lead is your output and can be plugged into one of our supplied Fusion color changing remotes or the plug can be cut off and wired directly to a 12v dc power source. If it is wired directly to a 12v power source without a remote only red, green or blue can be achieved. The black wire is positive and the red, green or blue wire is negative. Even if the halos are wired as a single color, the led drivers MUST still be used!

Drivers: Low Beam uses FT-V3D-3, High Beams uses FT-V3D -2 and Turn Signals use FT-V3D-1 

Basic Install – Removing Bumper and Headlights

1. Set  parking break, Take your floor jack and lifts the front end up and place jack stands in there correct spots. Remove front Tires.

2. Time to remove the Front Bumper. There is a run of plastic fasteners just under the Hood and just under the lip of the bumper. Use your Fastener Removal tool and remove all of those. Also while you have the tool. Undo the front half of the Inner Fenders. After that all that is left is 3 bolts on each side attaching the Fenders. One you can get access from under the hood. The other two you can get to from the inner fenders.

3. After you have the front bumper loose. Pop out your Side Marker Lights and disconnect your Fog lights.

4. There are 3 bolts holding each headlight on. Remove all those, but be careful to not drop the headlights. Once off you can unplug your Lights from back. Try not to touch the bulbs. The oil from your fingers and cause the lights to go out sooner.
5. Now that you have your Headlights out. It’s time to pre-heat the Oven. Set the Oven to 215 degrees.

6. While the Ovens Heating up. Now is a good time to match up your Halos to their LED Drivers. Each Driver will control one pair of Rings. Large, Medium and Small Rings. Just fold over small Tabs of Tape and write L, M or S at the end of the Rings Wires. Mark each Driver the Same Way.

7. Once the Oven is pre-heated. Place one Headlight on a baking sheet in the Over for 12min. After the 12min remove it. Use Gloves it’s HOT.

8. This is where your buddy might need to help again. While one is prying the light apart. One can be unclipping the clips. A flat head screwdriver can be used carefully to pry the housing apart.

9. Repeat the process on the other headlight. I only had to bake mine once. If you cannot get them apart after 12min. repeat the process again.
Installing the Halos

1. Lay the Halos in the Headlights to test fit them.

2. Each Ring needs holes drilled out to run wires. The RGB wires are Flat and wide. So a Dremel will be the better choice here. Make the hole just big enough to get the connecter through.

3. The other end of the ring may hit the housing as well. You may need to make another hole to allow the Rings to sit better.
(See attached Photos)
3M Automotive Adhesion Promoter
4. Place the Halos in their spot and run the wires through the holes. Double check each one and make sure it can lie where you want it. 

5. Just left each Halo Ring up and out of the way a little and clean the Chrome part of the housing where the Rings sit.

6. Once cleaned take your 3M Adhesion Promotor and wipe mounting surface with it. This really helps the backing tape on the rings stick.

7. Now peel off the backing tape from the rings and place them where they need to me. Take your time. Once they are stuck on. They are on for good.
Close up of the hole made for clearance.
8. Flip the Headlights over and you will see a large part of the tape sticking out. This ledge that it gives you. Will be the spot you place your 5min Epoxy on. Just run a thin bead around where the rings touch the housing. Be careful not to drip Epoxy where you don’t want it.
9. Once you have all the Holes drilled for the Rings. You will need to drill one more for all 3 wires to run out the back. Right behind the Turn signal. Is a nice Flat easy spot to drill. I just drilled a 1/2in hole. If I do this again. I would drill 3 small slots for each connector. Smaller holes would be cleaner and easier to seal up. Either way works and no one is going to see it when finished.
10. Now it’s time to put the headlights back together. Route your wires behind lens out of the way and out the 1/2 Hole you drill in the back.

11. You can do this a couple of ways. Place the Clear lens back in place and press it in till the clips go back over the tabs. If they don’t go back all the way. Either set them out in the sun for a while or use a Heat Gun to soften the factory seal back up.
12. Once they are pressed in all the way. Run a bead of Silicone around the joint. Make sure to squeeze it into the seam and use your finger to press it in deeper and smooth it out. Don’t forget to silicone the hole in the back you made. Move the wires around some while you squeeze silicone in and around the hole.

13. Let all this dry now for at least 30min to 1hr. Double check your curing times on the Silicone.
14. As that is setting up. This is a good time to find where you want to mount your Control Module and LED Drivers. The easiest spot for the Control Module is on the fender right by the Fuse Box. You can mount the Control Module with Double Sided Tape. Point the IR Receiver towards the Front Fender. There is small Gap where the Hood, Fender and Bumper meet.  I mounted the IR Receiver under the lip of the fender where the IR stuck out a little.

15. Running Power: Use an inline Fuse set up like in the Picture. The wires on the Control Module will need to be extended. Use the Factory Ground behind the Fuse box.

16. Find a Spot to mount your LED Drivers. There is plenty of wire to mount these just amount anywhere. I made an easy mount that came off my Radiator support. Just used double sided tape to mount them. I placed mine here for easy access.
17. Once everything is sealed up. You are ready to get everything back together.

18. Reinstall the Headlights using the 3 factory bolts. Remember to put your headlight bulbs back in.

19. Connect all your wires. This is where having your wire pre-marked comes in handy. Just find each pair and match them. 

Drivers: Low Beam uses FT-V3D-3, High Beams uses FT-V3D -2 and Turn Signals use FT-V3D-1 

20. Once everything is hooked up. Test the lights again. If everything is in working order.  Clean up the wiring. Tape, Zip ties, tuck and hide what you can.

21. Get your buddies help again and reinstall the front bumper the same way it came off.
Basic Trouble Shooting

Drivers: Low Beam uses FT-V3D-3, High Beams uses FT-V3D -2 and Turn Signals use FT-V3D-1 

None of my lights come on?

1. Make sure your IR Receiver and Remote have clear line of site.

2. Check inline Fuse. If your inline fuse has two spots for fuses. Make sure both spots have a Fuse in them.

3. Double Check power and ground connections.

4. Make sure your RGB Wires are connected correctly. Line up the Black wire with the Arrow on the White cable coming from the Control Module.

Some of the Rings don’t work?

1. Double Check the RGB connections for tightness and to make sure the colors are lined up correctly.