Street Scene

When I bought this Hood Street Scene was the maker.  They no longer have it listed on their website, but many online sites are still carrying the hood under Street Scenes name. I have also found this same hood being sold under the Brand Sarona..

Can be found here.

Let me start off I got lucky and found this hood new in the box on craigslist. So I didn’t have to pay the big price tag this kind of hoods cost. The cheapest I have seen this hood online was around $500, but I have seen it listed on some sites for up around $800. What did I get it for? $175 and did I mention it was New in the box..! I was the first to cut the tape and see it. I did have to drive 2hrs both ways to pick it up, but I didn’t have the big price tag or shipping cost.

For the $500 price tag it has online is about on par with other Hoods I have seen from Premium Companies. I have seen a company or two produce a hood in the $300 range. Duraflex is one of those, but the hood is mild looking compared to this one.

When I saw this hood on craigslist, I instantly started searching google for pictures if it on a Charger. Only found 2. That’s right only 2. Which I kind of liked and means it’s not on every Charger you see. I saw a ton of SRT hoods switched over to R/T’s and SXT. I saw a lot of Chally style hoods and some just ugly huge hood scoops. To me this hood scoop is pretty big but not too big. Not big enough to over power and take away from the looks. It’s like the SRT hood on steroids.  
It has two sets of Vents. One on each side of the Scoop. The Scoop opening and Vents are not pre-cut. So you will have to cut those out if you want. I suggest you make sure you don’t that before painting.  The Hood Scoop was the only one I choose to cut out. With a little time it’s not too hard. The vents I choose not to do for 3 reasons.  1. It looked like it would be a pain the butt to get each one cut perfect. 2. I didn’t want to deal with water getting into the engine bay and making things harder to keep clean. 3. Mounting the mesh under each opening. All these reasons just seemed like a pain to deal with. So what I did was Drill 1 hole in the bottom corner of each one, to let water drain down.

First impressions were pretty good. The hood looked smooth and had no cracks or anything I could really see wrong with it. For the install it gets tricky at times. There are a few little tricks to fit a new hood. Specially a Fiberglass one, from past experience. Fiberglass hoods seem to also be just off a little. Nothing aftermarket ever fits like OEM parts. So it takes a bit more to get a good fit.

Here are some tips on how to get a better fit. Just remember if you want OEM fit, buy OEM parts.

Before painting the hood. Install it and adjust it best you can before paint. Now when first lining up the hood leave the hood hinges kind of loose so you can tweak the hood some. Once you get the hood lined up close. Tighten the bolts done. You will have to do each side a few times adjust how the hood sits. A lot of lifting and lowering the hood. You can washers to adjust a little bit of height issues if need be, but most of this can be fixed with some work with the fenders.  This hood isn't has wide as the factory hood. So the gap on the sides are a bit bigger than the OEM hood. So work on getting the Hood centered well and it looks fine. Now my hood was taller on the driver side. So a way to fix this is oblong the Mounting holes on the upper inner fenders.

 Get yourself a Metal cutting bit for a Drill. You can see a picture below. Now widen the mounting holes for the fender. Reinstall the bolts, but keep them loose. Once you have the holes opened up some for up and down movement. You can use a prybar under the edge of the fender. Was you have some tension on it and lifted. Tighten the bolts back down. Make sure not to over tighten and strip them. Shut the hood and check for height. You can easily get a 1/8in either way on this.
Now for the fitment at the windshield and fender area. Mine was higher than the fender. Not much you can do there without some real time invested in modifying the a lot. If you have metal fenders still have you have bought aftermarket fenders. You can pull up a little on the upper most point of the fender that goes up the windshield pillar. I was able to pull up on mine and get a perfect fit there. I had to do both sides. Just takes a few seconds to adjust that part. Now if your hood sits lower. Some washers between the hood and the hinges will fix it.

One last thing to note about this hood and I have read this on one other review I found online. The review was only 2 sentences long, but they mentioned they had to use hood pins. I believe this was due to the fitment at the front of the hood near the headlights. The corners seem to sit higher than the fenders, but at the center of the hood above the grill was perfect. What I did here was just use hood pins. The hood pins pull the corners down and line it all up.

Once you have all this adjusted. You are ready to have the hood painted. If you’re not comfortable doing this on your own. Most any body shop that will paint your hood will install it and make these same adjustments for you.
Here you can see how much I raised the fender here to match with the new hood.
Before and Afters on Adjust Height at both ends of the hood.
Overall I’m very happy with this hood and I’m glad I don’t see many others running it. It helps set my Charger off from all the others you see.

Couple other  things to add, if you’re looking to reduce weight but switching hoods out. The Stock Hood is Aluminum and extremely light weight. An aftermarket fiberglass hood will weight a bit more. The hood is semi functional. Which means the scoop doesn’t have a direct tunnel system to your intake, but it can be opened up to dump air directly over your Cold Air Intake. If you cut an opening for your Scoop and want to install mesh. You will have to cut an access hole on the underneath of the hood.